Style 1825 - New Armhole Hiccup

It's probably more than a hiccup truth be told. From my last post, when I drafted a facing to face the armhole of View 4 Style 1825 so that I didn't have to use the messy binding method, I failed to notice that (as it wasn't faced to begin with!) it didn't have a seam allowance on the original pattern piece. The binding was supposed to be attached on top. Yes, unfortunately, this meant I attached the new facing WITH a 1.5cm seam allowance. I couldn't figure out why the dress looked like a top that could fit my 14 month old rather than a dress for a 6 month old. It was because adding the 1.5cm allowance made the armholes much too large for the garments proportions. Oh well, lesson learned.

It's finished now and to me, looks like a top with a smallish neckline. I did try it on Lola (in an attempt to console myself for spending many hours on this failed newborn gift!) and it does look completely adorable but when she moves it strikes me as being small enough around the neck to possibly annoy her. So to salvage it I will unpick the slip stitching on the inside yoke facing, turn it inside out and measure out half of the yoke width (which will neatly remove the top button hole too) and re-sew the neckline. A bit of a pesky job but worth it to end up with a lovely new top for Lola.

Front view

Back view

Close-up of the accidentally enlarged armhole :0/

My first bound buttonholes! A bit fiddly for 10mm buttons but I'm ready for my next go.

As for the soon-to-be-born newborn gift, I thought try this Butterick 407 Scallop Bonnet:

The Problem With Following Vintage Pattern Instructions

The problem I am experiencing with following vintage instructions is that they often leave part or whole seam allowances unfinished or they probably would have been trimmed with pinking shears. I know this would do the job but I would find it near impossible to use these techniques and consider the garment finished. I guess it's just the way I learned but it just doesn't look neat enough to me. So in order to appease my personal tastes without altering the original design I'll be very slightly changing the construction methods where necessary to produce a neater result.

Take the construction of this flutter sleeve from Style 1825 for example:



The instructions suggest pressing the shoulder seam flat and making bias binding to bind the armhole under the flutter sleeve. This would bother me (especially as it's a newborn gift!) so instead I drafted an underarm facing by using the 2 halves over the underarm shape from the front and back dress pattern. It was just a matter of tracing the underarm shape from each pattern piece making sure to overlap the side seam allowance (which is not needed as it's just a facing) and measuring a total width of 3cm all over the new piece. That equals 1.5cm seam allowance and a 0.5mm hem, once the facing was turned over, trimmed and pressed, it left approximately 1cm to top stitch around the armhole and also enclosed the flutter sleeve shoulder seam. Very neat! :0)

Beginning: Sewing Agenda

Where to start? Well, it seems I've stuck my fingers into a few pies. I have recently begun making a toile of Butterick 9796 for myself:



Doesn't she look like a geriatric SJP? It's uncanny! So far, I've graded the front and back bodice pieces up to a 36 bust and have started making a toile. It seems to fit very nicely although I won't really know until I attach the yoke collar. I think I've nutted out how to grade that pattern piece and the sleeve, now I just need the time. I'll be using the yoke to practice doing my first bound buttonhole too. They look so tailored.

I need and really want to start sewing some clothing for Lola, my youngest. She's just started walking which makes dresses much more viable and I didn't get to indulge in making dresses with her two brothers, funnily enough!

The number one priority though, will be a newborn gift for our neighbours who are expecting their first bub, a little girl. She's a few days overdue actually, so I really need to get my butt into gear! I'll be making Style 1825 in view 4:



It's from 1979 (a particularly good vintage ;0)) which just makes it under my 80s cut-off point.